NO UNCERTAIN TERMS: THE CASE FOR THE SUIT
There’s something definitive about a suit. It makes a claim for certainty, a declaration of intent. A good suit mind you, not a discount number that shimmers with cheap indifference. Over the decades the suit has become synonymous with the uniform of drudgery and ill-fitting middle management. Not this suit. A proper suit remains one of the most flattering things a man can wear. To say all suits are the same is like saying all sedans are created equally. We’re not talking about a Honda Civic here.
I’ve been thinking suits during our isolation. Flannels, pinstripes, suits with a sense of strength. That’s because right now the suit is superfluous, which makes it more attractive, not less. I’ve always thought men looked best in suits when worn on their own terms. Glenn O’Brien was a great believer in the artistic suit, so were the French New Wavers. When we emerge from this I hope men present themselves with a sense of ambition and flair.
When I see somebody on the street in a suit he looks like he has somewhere to go. That’s reassuring since good cities have good restaurants and museums and operas, all of which we are missing now. Dressing badly implies the world has happened to you. Wouldn’t you prefer to assert yourself?
There’s no formula for a good suit. It helps to pay for one that’s well-made, but there are plenty on eBay that are cheaper and if you know your measurements then you can dive in and take it to a tailor for slight alterations. These days most of the suits men gravitate to are Italian and have less structure. I’ll write about some good strategies later on, (here’s a piece I wrote for the newly engaged A Continuous Lean a while back).
I’m also thinking of conservative English suits. What Michael Caine wears in Get Carter (you can dispense with the shotgun). I realize it’s about to get warm and many dark suits are wool and that doesn’t sound so convincing. But a linen suit appeals too. I’ve always liked summer suits in dark colors. Though Michael Caine dons the white suit in Pulp (a wonderfully strange picture, also directed by Mike Hodges of Get Carter, incidentally). White might be a bit aggressive if you haven’t stepped in the deep end before, or it might quickly become the new you.
But Coggins, you say, you’ve been beating this drum for years. Well, yes that’s true. But there are times I’ve strayed from the suit. I want pattern and texture and wear a sport coat and trousers, which gives me more flexibility. Generally, I think that makes the most sense for the most men today. But right now, sitting here in Manhattan, I’m interested in the solid suit. It sounds easy, but beware, the proportions taken on a heightened importance, every element makes an impact. The lapel width should be in harmony with the collar and the size of the tie. Choose your colors correctly and you’ll create something graphically powerful. It might even become your new uniform, which was the whole idea of the suit in the first place. When we emerge from hibernation it will be a small consolation if the public realm sees more men making a strong sartorial statement on their way to the 21 Club. Let’s do lunch!
