PERFECTLY MEASURED: THE J. MUESER CAMPANIA JACKET
As we settle in to the new year and assess our sartorial needs, it’s only logical that a good sportcoat tops the list. It’s the most versatile element in the enlightened man’s wardrobe, so why not make it a good one? Then the question becomes, what makes it good? To me, a good sport coat is unstructured, well-made, fits well with high armholes, has some personality, costs around $1000 and is probably Italian.
That, my friends, perfectly describes the J. Mueser Campania jacket. Jake is a good friend, his store is down the street from my apartment. He’s made many clothes for me and I believe in what he does. I’ve referred friends and strangers to him, I’ve taken my dad there (he’s now a devotee) and various other acquaintances who have very specific taste. Jake has won them all over. But this is a new step for him, making a ready-to-wear coat at an earthbound price. It’s downright terrific.
Working closely with a factory in Naples, Jake created his own pattern that is totally unstructured and unlined—it’s got a natural shoulder and silhouette and is perfectly comfortable—it feels like you can live in it. The jacket has a healthy lapels and a slightly higher gorge (basically the lapel notches are a little higher, which makes the jacket look longer and the wearer appear taller). It’s available in a number of lovely fabrics, you’ll gravitate to one that suits your personality, from conservative to bold.
There’s something to be said for the rarefied bespoke jacket that costs a small fortune, but most people don't dress like that every day, the same way most people don’t drink a serious Burgundy with dinner every day. This is the coat you have for the next five years. I think these look very good with dark grey flannel trousers and an Oxford shirt and, wait for it, a knit tie! But everything looks good that way! You’ll find your path, whether a turtleneck, cords and desert boots, or polo shirt, chinos and loafers. The Campania jacket is the result of understanding what well-dressed men want and finding the craftsmen who can carry it out. It’s a combination of design, intuition and style, it’s a rare thing and we’re better dressed for it.
J. Mueser. 19 Christopher Street, New York. 347.982.4382.