GOOD HOTELS: BORGO SAN FELICE

A good hotel is both transporting and reassuring. It conveys a sense of imagination that allows you to live, however briefly, an improved version of your life. You have a rare alpine yoghurt and some wild strawberries while sitting on your terrace and find yourself saying “I could get used to this.” That’s one of the reasons elegant hotels exist—to allow us to imagine this alternate version of ourselves. But for the equation to truly succeed the extravagance can’t feel oppressive, you have to feel natural and at ease. Italian hotels are very good at this. And the Borgo San Felice, set in an entire hamlet in the hills outside Siena, does it as well as any place else.

The old chapel, at left. Photos courtesy Borgo San Felice.

The definition of a hamlet is always a little unfocused to me. It seems it’s a small town where the residents want you to know just how small it is. In the case of Borgo San Felice they couldn’t be more welcoming. Danilo Guerrini is the general manager, formerly of La Posta Vecchia and Il Pellicano (speaking of places that are transporting). He is a striking presence all over the hotel, greeting guests, making sure they have what they need. He sets the tone of gracious hospitality and possesses the attention to detail you need if your hotel takes up more than fifteen buildings.

This is a good home base if you’re exploring Siena and other Tuscan towns. It’s easy for day trips, or if you want to bicycle through the countryside (they have a fleet of them you can borrow). But it’s just as good as a retreat. You can sit under the shade trees and read by the pool. Or eat lunch with views across the rose garden, or down the hills of olive trees and vineyards. They make their own olive oil, I think all olive oil tastes better in Italy, probably because it is better, but at San Felice it seems much better.

All meals are available in the rose garden at Poggio Rosso.

Osteria del Grigio, is for straight ahead fare wonderfully executed. There’s a wood grill, if you want to go down the road of thick, rare Tuscan steak, or simple grilled vegetables if you’re feeling more virtuous. Then there’s the big time, dinner at the Michelin-starred Poggia Rossa, under talented young chef Juan Camilo Quintero. This is a serious meal but it’s in a relaxed setting on the terrace, with warm service. If you want to head into the deep end, you can start memorizing the wine list now. But the hotel makes their own wines that are perfectly affordable (you can try the Vermentino at 8 euros a glass).

The hotel has gone through a renovation and the newly designed rooms are airy and welcoming. There are plenty of different buildings, so it’s easy for families to get connecting rooms, or even to take over an entire building. There’s the redesigned spa, and wine tastings with wines from their vineyards. So you can keep yourself very busy even if very busy means doing very little. If you had to attend a destination wedding then you’d want it to be here. In June, there’s jasmine in the air. You walk through the small town in the most leisurely way, it’s like a film set come to life—it’s impossibly lovely as the sun goes down. And yes, you can imagine yourself living here very easily.

Borgo San Felice. Rooms start around €400.