I received a personal email a few weeks back saying that Shiki Juraku, beloved hotel in Kyoto, had closed and would not reopen. This is very sad news. I’ve been thinking a lot about Kyoto, it’s one of the places I want to visit when, and if, travel returns to normal. And Shiki Juraku was one of the reasons why. 

We all love Kyoto for its temples and restaurants and beautiful old quarter. And those things are all great—though you have to thread the needle to avoid the immense number of visitors. My relationship with the city has changed as I’ve discovered serene new neighborhoods full of lovely stores and cafes and houses.

Shiki Juraku was in one of these quieter areas. It was set in a series of traditional row houses, or machiya, and each guest had their own two-story house on either side of a pathway. They all had a slightly different design that felt classic and clean. There were touches of color, with warm textiles, and welcome soaking baths. 

But the hotel was more than well-designed. It had a truly wonderful staff who took turns working behind the desk or serving breakfast. This breakfast was also extraordinary, a savory balancing act sourced from local farmers. Have you ever had a small glass of cider that showed you what you’ve been missing your entire life? That’s the sort of thing they served. 

The hotel literally changed the way I interacted with the city.  I first visited in 2013 and returned nearly every year since. Their staff understood what I liked—and crucially kept my secret bar secret from other friends I recommended the hotel to!—and advised me on restaurants and stores they thought I would like. They directed me toward the Raku Museum which was nearby. To soba restaurants, paper shops, whisky bars, tempura counters. They rearranged reservations when my sister arrived late because of a monsoon. We looked forward to seeing them each year and I think they looked forward to seeing us. 

In short, this is what I love about travel: An approach that’s thoughtful and specific, kind and rarefied. It’s hard to run a hotel like that—you have to be good at so many things and then you still have to thrive as a business. I feel so badly for Japanese businesses who were expecting their busiest summer ever with the arrival of the Olympics. We know how that turned out. It went from busy to empty so quickly that many restaurants and hotels will never recover. 

With Shiki Juraku closed the world is a little less special.