The Contender

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DEPT. OF DUBIOUS ADVICE: HOUSE ARREST EDITION


We’re on all relative lockdown, so let’s get down to answering some of your questions. Since we’re looking for ways to occupy our time I thought I’d mention Music Exists, the great new podcast with Chris Ryan and Chuck Klosterman. Just two men talking about music, culture and taste. You don’t need to like Black Sabbath—the band is referenced quite a bit. It’s terrific. I’m re-watching The Sopranos for the first time since it was released. The show is as great as it ever was. After all this time (and knowing how it resolves itself) it’s a pleasure to appreciate the intricacies of how it was constructed and particularly the comic performances. With help from the wonderful book “The Sopranos Sessions” by Matt Zoller Seitz and Allan Sepinwall which brilliantly recaps each episode. It’s a delight.

On to your questions!


“I’m looking for a pair of Belgian loafers but don't want to break the bank (being a college kid and all). Any suggestions on some that may be in the $200 range or under and aren't cheap pieces of plastic?” -Zach

This is an important question, Zach. Belgians cost an ice cold $490. You can try to get lucky on Baudoin & Lange’s, which have a leather sole and are more loafer than slipper. They are having a sample sale on their site now and the prices are around 260 pounds, so just over your zone. I got furious at the price of Belgians (not to mention their shoddy service at the Park Avenue store) and got some Chinese knockoffs on eBay. They sell them at the 4ydream eBay store, $60 for the shoes, $20 for shipping. They have a rubber sole and none of the craftsmanship of real Belgians, but honestly, they’re not that bad.


How should a young man go about trying to find his style? -PK

How long do you have, PK? This is one of the all-time questions. It’s one of the topics I explored in my book “Men and Style” where I asked interesting men how they arrived at their sartorial world view. If you’re lucky you grew up with a father or mentor who helped you learn important lessons. But we all benefit from being curious. Watch old films, read biographies, study interesting lives, read interviews, listen to podcasts, go to thrift stores, learn something about tailoring, look at how old Italian men and Englishmen dress, experiment a little and if you meet an interesting older man then ask him some questions. Good luck!



What are the best velvet slippers in the game and what's your personal opinion on them? I think I've never seen you wearing them on IG. Same goes for opera pumps. -Tim

Another very important question! I just saw a pair of brown velvet Purple Label Ralph Lauren slippers at Sean Crowley’s shop in Brooklyn, and they were the most perfect thing I’ve ever seen (and sadly too large for me). I have a pair of black Crockett & Jones that I enjoy and wear with a tuxedo. They’re older but essentially the Albert. If they’re not formal then I would go with burgundy. I don’t own any but Stubbs & Wooten in midnight are also very strong.



What are your thoughts on watches? How many you own, what kinds you like? -George

Well George, I’m not a watch expert in any sense. I like a watch that you have for a decade or longer, preferably as a present from somebody in your family than then you pass along one day. I have Jaeger Le Coultre reverso that my parents gave me that appeared in Matt Hranek’s book. When I fish I wear a simple Timex or a military-style watch, from this dubious company called Military Watch Company that basically knocks off, you guessed it, military watches. They’re cheap, I like the Vietnam models, and I don’t mind when I put them through the laundry by accident.


Is sartorial advice-giving dead? -Caustic Man

Dear Caustic Man, I really hope not! If it is don’t tell me and I’ll gallantly continue.


Traveling to Charleston (hopefully) in October. What would be on your list of things to see & do, places to eat & shop, etc. assuming you had three days there? -Josh

Well Josh, I absolutely love Charleston and I know you’ll have a great time. I would stay at the Dewberry if you want to be central, it’s a smart, mid-century modern building. Or Zero George Street in an old house, if you want something much more private and residential. I would go to the great Ben Silver store, one of the classic stores in America and then to visit my friends at Indigo & Cotton, which is much more up to date and has a wonderful edit. There are too many Brooks Reitz restaurants to recommend, they’re all good, I love to sit at the bar at Little Jack’s Tavern. I usually stop in the Rarebit for a drink or late breakfast. And I love to walk around all the old houses on King Street and Meeting Street.


A close friend of mine just bought a new home. What would you recommend as a classy, usable, and of course aesthetically pleasing housewarming gift? -Russell

This depends, of course, on what they’re interested in. If money is no issue then anything from the Tiffany cocktail set, start with the crystal mixer. You could try to find an antique one, which would cost less, and would also be nice. You could try a A Le Creuset dutch oven in a nice color, this vase from Roman & Williams (the entire website is quite something), and if you are all out of ideas then just get them a very large bottle of champagne.


Like many young bachelors, I'm intractably drawn to the Eames lounge and its many (more affordable) imitators—problem is, the damn thing's not actually all that comfortable, the posture's all wrong for reading, and moreover it's become a bit of an indicator of personality, one that I'd prefer not to communicate to guests. You've talked a fair bit about your club chair - do you have any other recommendations for reading chairs? -R. Holt

I am very into this question. It’s important that furniture is comfortable. One reason I believe this is that I had a very uncomfortable, faux modernist couch when I was probably about your age. I thought the fact that it was orange made me more interesting than I was. I think if you can afford a club chair then get one. Even if it’s almost destroyed then you can cover it with textiles. Otherwise get a comfortable, unsightly chair and cover that with textiles. Entertain your guests by showing them how ugly the chair is underneath your wonderful quilt.