FLY FISHING PATAGONIA: A TRAVEL GUIDE
In January I went to Argentina. It was a trip unlike any other—dream fishing all over Patagonia. I recommend heading south (with a few days in Buenos Aires, one of the world’s great cities) in the strongest possible terms.
Patagonia, of course, is huge, so there are some decisions to be made. Whenever you’re planning a fishing trip I always advise to be honest: do you want to catch many smaller fish or fewer but larger fish? Do you want to be isolated? Do you want luxury or rusticity? Do you like to wade or fish from a boat? There aren’t wrong answers.
In Patagonia there are lodges where you drive every day an hour (or more) to world class angling. Other people would rather fish on the property if the fishing is good (which, in Patagonia, is still better than just about anywhere else).
Here are some lodges that can help you settle on a good plan. You can fish until April or later this year. Or start planning for next season (which starts in November, but really gets going in December). Every time I’ve gone has been in January, to pretty good effect. I made all my arrangements through Patagonia River Guides, which worked out very well. They have their own lodge and outfit many other operations with their terrific guides. They can also help with all travel to an within Argentina, all Covid-related issues, so you don’t have to worry about the logistics and can focus on more important things, like casting into the wind to a rising trout that’s the largest fish you’ve ever seen in your life.
You can enjoy a seriously good fishing trip with five days on the water. But if you’re making the long haul you might want to try to split 7 or 8 days between a few of these lodges.
Best All Around Lodge. PRG Lodge at Trevelin. One of the most polished operations I’ve ever experienced. They offer a 7-night, 6-day program where you fish a different stretch of water every day. You head into Los Alerces National Park to fish the majestic and clear Rivadavia (pictured above). Or a spring creek in the desert where trout slam hoppers you cast from the bank. The lodge is large single rooms so it’s quite private. The food is remarkable. You’re at the edge of town so there’s less privacy than if you were at an immense estancia. You won’t mind. You’re close to the Andes and at a little altitude so this is a greener setting then the desert. Also good for couples who fish more casually. Highly recommended.
Most Personal Style. Arroyo Verde. A 25000-acre estancia with a charming house at the center of a private valley surrounded by green mountains. You fish one river here—the Traful—which is very blue, very clear and holds a few trout and some landlocked salmon. Those fish are all very large. Very, very large. You sight cast to them in the morning and then cast hoppers and streamers in the afternoon and work your way through the water. This is hard wading and challenging fishing. You might go fish-less one day or even two. When you do catch a fish—usually over 24” then you’re feeling very good. You stay at the small stone house where you dine with your hosts for each meal and you feel like you’re part of the most elegant family. Then you take your a siesta before heading out to fish until the sun sets at 9pm. Dinner at 10pm. It’s the life.
Best Old World Style. Tipiliuke. Another immense estancia (over 50,000 acres). Great for couples—lunch is beneath the trees on the lawn outside. Many opportunities to hike the property, ride horses, enjoy the spa, you can even go and golf (on a pretty serious course outside St. Martin). Oh, and fish. There’s access to the beloved Chimehuin, a lovely and very productive river. Also the Collón Cura and the Alluminé.
Most Secluded High-Design. Tres Rios Lodge. Complete isolation on the desert close to the Chimehuin. You access the lodge by a gnarly dirt road over a mountain (unless you big time it and helicopter in). You’re alone in a vast stretch of desert with views over the river. Very handsome modern buildings, just a few rooms. Slightly more affordable than other properties—a good place to take over with friends.
Most Unique Experience. PRG Unplugged. Camping as you go down the mighty Limay river. I’m working on a story on this trip so there will be more on this later. But if you want to target the large, and I mean large, brown trout that migrate up the Limay then this is a pretty sweet trip. You’re swinging streamers on weighted lines, so it’s not for the faint of heart, but your reward is a 26” fish (many are larger) that you’ll be able to bore your friends about because you can’t stop talking about it. Wonderful camping set up as you go with grilled asados at night. Sitting by the Limay enjoying a proper lunch and this is a singular experience.
Other Options. Quemquemtreu, is a more rustic lodge near Tipiliuke—I’m eager to visit next time. If you love wading then consider San Humberto, which has private access to the lovely Malleo, and spring creeks that flow down from the mountains early in the season (pre-January). I love this water and am hoping to fish more here next time.